Windigo

Tim Fisher gets a big thumbs up for this one. Windigo is a classic Moores Wall line that delivers the whole package with big emphasis on adventure and intimidation. This is the kind of route where you better have a few tricks in your bag. Physical, emotional and technical expertise required.

Windigo is a 3 pitch, 200' traditional line that ascends the left side of the magnificent Indian Head Tower. All routes on the tower are in and of themselves, incredible lines. Windigo can be done in two pitches but good rope work (via edges and drag) is necessary and climber communication is difficult.

Disclosure:

This is a serious business route. The rock is 'very' steep with plenty of jagged edges so falls could be potentially dangerous. And there is not an abundance of gear, so don't pass any up.

Be very strong at the grade.

Windigo starts off a massive ledge system 80' above the ground. The easiest approach is by climbing Lark's Tongue, Nevermore or Indian Head P1. The original first pitch to the ledge, climbs the corner 15' right of Jugger Head but probably hasn't been climbed in a very long time.

Start on the largest part of the ledge, to the left side of the Indian Head. Climb straight up the center of the super white, bulging quartzite to a stance 30' up. Prepare for the business and ascend into steep terrain through jagged edges, tiered roofs, tough gear, a vicious pump and Elvis impersonations. (You think I'm kidding!) Continue on to your first reprieve at a set of good stances below the roof system. Set up a trad belay here and bring up your second. The next pitch is shorter yet still longer than it looks via a layered headwall above the roof. The last two pitches can be done as one long pitch and is splendid but the follower should be fairly strong as there will be no visual contact and falls with rope stretch will leave the second suspended out away from the rock. Set up a trad anchor directly at the top and bring up your second. Walk to the first tree and rap 50' down the same side as Windigo onto a very bushy ledge. Rap again to the starting ledge and rap to the ground via Nevermore anchors.

A full rack from 00 to 3" cams and mostly smaller to medium nuts. Double up on 1" cams. You'll need either two 2.5's or a 2.5 and a 3" cam for the belay station at the very top.