Ferret Hamster

A route for the 5.6 climber going to the North End with their 5.12 crusher friends.  Start up the crack system on jugs for the first 60ish feet, then stem the pillar (or don't, I'm not your dad) to the top.  Without stemming this route probably goes at 5.7.  Build a gear anchor.  The PG-13 rating is not for runout, but because a fall at the last 30 or so feet could have you smack against the pillar behind you.  On the FA, we rappelled on a 80m with a tag line, this isn't recommended as the tag line got caught at the top and turned our descent into an hour long debacle.  You can most likely rap to the ground on an 80m (potentially a 70m) double rope rappel although we did not test this.

Getting there is an adventure in and of itself.  Go past The Recommendation and scramble up the gully to the left.  Once at the top of the gully, look left to see the obvious, massive detached pillar.  The route is between the pillar and the wall.  Look for the huge #6 size square slot, the start is directly below this.

Standard NC rack, #6 comes in handy if you've got it, build gear anchor at the top. Slung rap rings on a tree 15ish feet from the edge.