The best of the 10's at this crag. The upper face climbs like the steep, easy 10's at Momentum: Long moves on huge holds.

Clip two bolts, then a cursed but short section of BCC 5.4 to the upper face. Once you're on the upper face, stem, pinch, and weave your way around the

center set of bolts

on this face.

Note that we added one bolt on the easy slab to make the route consistent and to take away the potential ground fall from the easy section.

Upper Cut

Haymaker

Haymaker Direct

Right Hook

Killshot

I Don't Name Single Pitch Routes

Takedown

First Night at Fight Club

Keep it Heavy

Left Hook

The Steiger Sanction

A crimpier version of Upper Cut. Loads of jugs interspersed with crimps and slimpers, slopers and the cool kind of funk. Near the top, you'll need to commit to left or right. Both are super fun but you'll need patience to keep it at the grade. Some people say its .10d because they didn't. Some say its .10b because they did. So .10c it is.

5.11 climbing up an overhanging staircase takes you to a technical crux around the 5th bolt where the angle kicks back steeper. Punch out right to the arête and follow as it curves left to form the lip of the overhang. A bouldery mantel serves as the redpoint crux. Follow slab to chains up and left.

Climb the lower half of Haymaker then split left after the 4th bolt.  Get a good rest in the notch on the left and then do the crux boulder problem up the middle of the smooth overhang.  After pulling over the lip, clip Haymaker’s last bolt and finish up the Haymaker slab.

Is it 10a or 10c? Finding the jugs makes all the difference. Either way the crimps and jugs are high flow. You

could

stem off the ledge on the upper half and make it easier -

but that's way less fun

. You know you can climb this grade so just commit to the gigantic jugs on the face, do it the fun way and keep it like a .10- at Momentum.

The ledge in the middle takes a star away but the face above gives one and a half back. The hardest part about bolting this face was deciding which jug line to use. In the end, there is a crimp or jug on almost every square foot of this route.

If you're scoping this one out, just make sure your finger is solid before you pull the trigger. Fun climbing out of an alcove leads to an easy slab, a little traversing over a bulge, and then the gnarly crux. Straight-forward climbing after this to the anchor.

Hey Kent, what should we call this thing? "pfft, I don't name single pitch routes."

This was the easiest and first route at the crag. Start on the right side of the alcove by the tree, climb up and left and then move up and right onto the face. Once you're on the face, tip-toe right towards the arete but not necessarily all the way to it. Many cryptic holds are hidden in the upper section of techie BCC face climbing. Staying in the bolt line while you're pulling the roof takes a little faith because you have to explore around and look for the hidden holds.

A fun opening crux and some compression climbing lead to an easier top. Pretty good overall!

"The eighth and final rule: If this is your first night at Fight Club, you have to fight."

Gearing up for this one always puts a lump in my throat. Not that its dangerous: there is gear everywhere. Its just a steep-ass crack system that keeps coming after you till you hit the roof.

This one got in my head and kept me going for a lot longer than the others. Turns out my .12b project is probably more like .12b/c? Tyler Phillips patiently taught me how to drill a steep line on lead. Holy cow it was spooky. As we worked it, some key holds broke making us move some bolts and change the line quite a bit.

Climb 3 bolts of easy terrain then the super steep crack. Climbing from the bottom to the first of the upper bolts feels around .11b for you tradsters out there. Once you clip the first of the upper bolts, its game on, with cool slopers, pinches and crimps. Save some juice for the last mantle, which is way easier if you're short. This mantle is also way easier when you finally find the jugs. The ones right by your face. On you're like 30th go. I've never had my large ass more over the lip of a mantle and still fallen. Believe me, the fall is safe.

This is one of my favorites at the crag.

Start on the steep face left of the arete, cross it half way up and finish on the engaging vertical face above.

If you want to feel good about yourself, climb right of the bolt line at the bottom and onsite this climb. But its really only 11+ that way.

If you stay within the bolt line

at the bottom, the pump becomes a little more of a factor and makes it .12a. Also, the climbing is way more fun that way.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hoss Garden