- Edit (TBD)
Description
Is it 10a or 10c? Finding the jugs makes all the difference. Either way the crimps and jugs are high flow. You
could
stem off the ledge on the upper half and make it easier -
but that's way less fun
. You know you can climb this grade so just commit to the gigantic jugs on the face, do it the fun way and keep it like a .10- at Momentum.
The ledge in the middle takes a star away but the face above gives one and a half back. The hardest part about bolting this face was deciding which jug line to use. In the end, there is a crimp or jug on almost every square foot of this route.
Location
The goal is to get to the upper face. Please note that it's a lot easier to start on the first 2 of bolts of "
IDNSPR
", then step over and left onto the very easy slab.
If you want a bit of a challenge, you can start on the lower set of bolts on the ramp coming down from the upper staging area. The hidden jugs keep it at 10- but the first time through can feel quite a bit harder.
Protection
8 draws if you stay in the bolt line. If you use the easier alternate start of IDNSPR you'll need a cam or two.