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Peak Mountain 3

Citizen of the Realm

FA RH & RW with SM 8/28/19
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is basically the extension of the "White Leather" variation of Arthur's Arete. On the upper half of the route there are a couple of nebulous moves on marginal rock (read "weathered granite"), but both are well protected, yet they still detract from the overall experience.  Do the first half and cut over to the belay on Arthur's.START - A few feet right of the "holes" of the start of Arthur's Arete.P1 - Climb to the first black bolt, then a green (0.75) Camalot in the crack (same placement as Arthur's) and up right on easy rock, passing 2 bolts. [Here one can easily move left to the P1 belay of Arthur's].  To finish on "Citizen" continue more or less straight up passing 4 more bolts. The crux sequence is at two closely spaced bolts, where delicate balance leads to a step right onto decomposed granite. Just to make it more interesting, this area is usually damp or wet due to seepage. Above, pass the 4th bolt.  A fixed tree anchor once existed above ( but was removed in 2021 by person(s) unknown) or move left to the P2 belay on Arthur's.  125-130 ft  5.8+ (?)  Rap with 2 ropes to the ground, or with one swing hard to the left to the P1 anchor on Arthur's.   On the FA the leader "French Free-ed" off the lower bolt to clip the higher bolt, then did the sequence free.History - The first explorations of the route were done the day after one of us became a US citizen.

Location

See "Arthur's Arete" for directions from the main slab to the "East Slabs" and the routes.

Protection

Just the 0.75 Camalot, plus draws for the bolts