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Peak Mountain 3

Percival's Quest

FA R. Hall & S. Matz Oct. 27, 2013
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Percival’s Quest (5.8 G / 5.5 - 5.6 PG/R ) FA R. Hall & S, Matz Oct 27, 2013 Sir Bors and Percival were the key Knights in the Holy Grail Quest. An inviting stripe of golden rock descends about mid-way between the 10ft wide stripe of white-gold rock that marks Sir Bor’s Dream and the dark streak of lichen next to Merlin. The golden streak almost reaches the ground, but the two long streaks of black lichen/moss converge about 8ft from the ground.

START- About 12-15 ft right of Merlin’s lichen streak and 10 ft left of the white-gold rock of Sir Bor’s Dream. If you have rappelled down the Merlin rap line with a single rope, and swung right to land you are probably right at the start.

P1 ( & P2)– Cross the right-hand streak of lichen on 2 or 3 brushed (2013) holds to gain the golden rock. Climb up to the first bolt (5.5 - 5.6 PG/R) then past it on the left (crux, 5.8G). Interesting climbing continues to, and above, the 2nd bolt. Continue up into clean, but black rock passing a 3rd bolt. Head for the white, slightly bulging rock about 25 ft right of the Merlin Belay. BELAY at the two bolts ( 3/8") [ with a 70m rope P1 and P2 can be combined into a "rope stretcher" single pitch.]

P2 - Climb the "white" bulge to a left-facing corner with a few small trees (cams possible). Step up onto the block and over the overlap (bolt, and cam possible below) and up to the trees. [ See NOTE below.]

NOTE- The Handren guidebook implies this 2nd pitch is/was part of Sir Bors Dream (..."go over a swell to reach a small belay with 2 pins in a flake on the left"...) I believe the "small flake" is the flake about 10 ft left of the corner; this flake still (2014) has one old angle pin in it. However, while climbing Sir Bors with K. Winkler in 2013 he stated that Sir Bors did NOT go left, but went right (as described in Sir Bors route description). The pin, then, may(?) be on the original line of Merlin's Pitch #2?

Location

START- About 12-15 ft right of Merlin’s lichen streak and 10 ft left of the white rock of Sir Bor’s Dream. If you have rappelled down the Merlin rap line with a single 70m rope, and swung right to land you are probably right at the start.

Protection

Quick draws for the bolts. Gold#2 and Red#1.5 Camalot ( or 2 Golds) for P2