- Edit (TBD)
Description
An unexpectedly burly line that demands a fairly well equipped tool belt. From bolt clipping through bouldery sequences to fierce, thin crack climbing to easy, lichenous, runouts, it feels like climbing through the different eras of development in the region. The line cuts up through the guts of an obvious triangle roof feature, utilizing 4 out of the 5 bolts placed by Peter Doucette for some wild winter line (There is an option to use his fifth bolt and continue left through the obvious weakness and finish on some 5.9 climbing to his fixed anchor). After making it through the triangle roof (crux), climb right on the obvious thin crack (5.11+... maybe a little easier at 5.12-) to to the buttress' arete. Pull around the corner and paddle up some decidedly alpine feeling slab/face to a two bolt anchor. Approach pitch kind of stinks but isn't the worst. 2 raps to get back to the ground. Bring a 70m rope
Location
Right of cloudwalker/buttwalker, far left of mechanics route. Look for the obvious fractured roof systems.
Protection
4 bolts, 2 fixed beaks (really good but options to back up) single to #1, doubles in fingers, good set of nuts, brassies and micro cams for the end.