Mechanics' Route

• This route experienced major rockfall in 2014/2015. See comments below for more info. *

  1. Step over Central Gully and get established in the often wet corner (5.7 R). Continue up the corner to a large vegetated ledge and belay from a slung feature and some fixed nuts (small gear backs it up). 5.9, 100 feet.

  2. Rockfall has affected this pitch Move up the slabby corner from the belay (extend your gear). Stem the corner as high as you can, place gear above your head, and fire the crux lieback. After an awkward move to mantle the V-shaped groove, make a few moves up to your left and belay from an old bolt and two pins. 5.10b, 50 feet.

  3. Climb 5.9 offwidth directly above the belay until the crack narrows. Move up onto the narrow ledge on your right, then lieback and jam the corner crack (narrow fists to narrow hands) up and over the bulge. The regular finish traverses left to a ledge, then up and over easy terrain. Belay from a slung pinch between two boulders. 5.10a, 65 feet.

Head up the Huntington Ravine Trail to where it turns right and goes up the slabs. Continue up the gully, scrambling up slabs just to the right of the water. Look for a good sized ledge with a single old bolt. Belay from here - pitch one begins in the corner 5 feet farther up the gully.

A set of nuts and a single set of cams.

--- 60 meter rope OR twin 50 meter ropes are MANDATORY --- (29 meter rap from first belay to ground)

Bring extra webbing and rap rings, just in case. A hammer and some pins in your pack isn't a terrible idea either, if you know what to do with them. The second anchor kinda sucks.