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Peak Mountain 3

Desert Storm

FA: Tom Herbert, 4/91, TD.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Desert Storm requires an approach via Stradivarius or Fender Strat (Both excellent lines on their own) but despite it being "out of the way" is, in my opinion, one of the best .12 pitches in the gorge. The pitch ascends a beautiful golden face with big exposure and incredibly sustained moves on crimps and small pockets. Though the route is only 6 bolts long, when you look to place your feet you feel that you are much higher off the deck as all you can see is the river, and not the small tower on which the belay for the route is situated. The rock on the route is much more coarse then other rock found in the ORG and climbs more like the Sad Boulders. I feel the only reason this route is not 5 stars is because it has not received much traffic and is relatively short by gorge standards.

Location

Desert Storm can be approached via Stradivarius (8) or Fender Strat (10a), or Sly Little Fart Blaster (11d, which finishes at the shuts for Strad. All these approach routes make great warm-up for Desert Storm. It is important to note that a chain belay for Desert Storm exist directly on top of the tower, about 10 feet past the shuts for Strad. or Fender. This belay is much more comfy then attempting to belay from the shuts for Fender or Strad. After lowering off desert Storm, rapp down whatever route you used to approach the top of the pillar.

Protection

The pro is 6 bolts, there are cold shuts at the top, and there's a chain belay on top of the tower.