Desire

Short but aesthetic line up a steep, blank face next to Crybaby. Stick clip mandatory.

The climb starts with an extremely thin boulder on tiny, sharp crimps and mediocre feet to the first bolt. The guidebook calls this a V9. There are lots of options for hands, and most of them are bad. It looks like people have started right off the ground or left off some cheater stones - I went left.

After the first bolt, the climbing eases up significantly, with fun, long moves on mostly good holds and some good stances to shake midway. The climb ends with easy moves from the last bolt to the anchors below the roof.

The latest guidebook has this route listed as 13d. The grade is entirely based on the difficulty of getting to the first bolt, so your experience may vary.

To the right of Crybaby on the blank looking face just left of the arete.

4 bolts to mussies