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Peak Mountain 3

Oliver Perry Smith Buttress

FA Rick Linkert, Tom Kaufman, 1972
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a sweet route right off the road but only if you like things on the chunky side. It has a great wide crack corner on perfect chocolate, strenuous laybacking, and straight in thrutching on good stone. There are 2 pitches with no anchor at the top.

P1: Climb up through the wideness, passing several fixed anchors (retrobolts) and a wild imposing chimney roof, continue thrutching upwards to a good ledge with a two pin anchor.

P2: Crux! Climb more wideness, thrutch to the top. There are no anchors. Walk off down a descent gully or sling the skinny tree and go back the way you came.

Location

Oliver Perry Smith Buttress is on the first bank of cliffs right of the Monument's West entrance kiosk. On the right is a prominent recess formed by left- and right-facing corners this route ascends the left corner.

Protection

Single Friends from #1 - #3.5, 4-5 #4 Camalots, 2 #5 Camalots.