Ballerina (right of Taper)

Same start as

Taper

, but stay right, in the dihedral. Easy climbing gains a good ledge, then awkward stems with the curving offwidth and right facing dihedral gain the anchors. More difficult for shorter people.

Shares anchors with

Taper

. Before

Special Verdict

by 100 or so yards.

Thin seams and offwidth make pro difficult. Can be toproped from

Taper

. Micro-stoppers and ballnutz (2 sets) provide adequate protection. A #5 Camalot can be placed in the curved offwidth just below the crux. Double anchor with old slings and double rap ring power point.