- Edit (TBD)
Description
Climb up a slightly overhanging arete with sidepulls and jugs clipping 2 bolts. Turn a lip onto a slab/ alcove area below the awesome roof. The direct line at the permadraws through the roof with 2 mediocre sidepulls/gastons and a big reach to an edge seems harder than the 12a rating in the old guidebook. It's possible to climb steep jugs out left on a flake, and traverse back right at the second permadraw, which feels easier than the grade. I think the original route lowered from the 2 chain draws, and a 12b extension continues past the lip of the roof to anchors above.
Location
This is the second route from the left side, just right of
Squawk, Shit, and Leave
. It's the obvious line going up the biggest roof with two chain draws.
Protection
8 bolts & anchors with chains.