The Real Deal

Though scruffy in appearance with sections of grainy rock, the movement flows pretty well, and the route lives up to the 2006 guidebook description of "technical with several crux sections."

A large pine growing out of the narrow ledge in front of the route makes it hard to preview from the ground, and you'll quickly find yourself groping for holds around blind corners. The difficulty is fairly sustained with only one great rest stance. There are two ways to finish: left (recommended) or right. There is an alternate set of chains off to the right if you opt to battle through the man-eating fist crack.

Going left is probably the trickier way to finish, but it is also more likely to leave your skin intact, and it appears to be the the FA party's intended line, judging by the location of the last bolt and the beefy chains at the apex of the cliff. I was happy with my decision to downclimb from the crack and go that way.

The Real Deal ascends the overhanging groove in the middle of the wall, directly behind the tall pine tree. It's right of

Channel Z

and left of

Inspector Clouseau

.

7-8 bolts and a chain anchor (10 quickdraws).