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Peak Mountain 3

Jellyroll Arch

FA John Hoffman and Skip Casey, 1972
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a must-do route on the east face of Grouse Slab. The route climbs slab underneath the obvious diagonal roof (the Arch), then turns the corner and climbs cracks for another 70 feet or so. Start at the blocks below the terminus of the Arch. Climb up into it and traverse left, protecting in the crack. After turning the corner, belay at the ledge system when rope drag becomes a bitch. A couple 2-3" pieces are helpful. Climb through the crack/roof system abover (its easy 5.5-5.6) and up to a tree belay. Descend to the south.

Protection

A set of stoppers and a set of cams to 3". The route has a reputation for being difficult to protect, and therefore runout, but I found it was plenty safe with solid gear when I needed it.