- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route begins as a slab, then leads to a left-trending roof that leads to another short slab section that ends on a comfortable, sandy ledge. Although it seems to be fairly unknown, and therefore seldom climbed, the rock is clean. Horniak's "North Tahoe: A Rock Climber's Guide" book gives this a grade of 5.6, but the bottom section can feel harder because of the somewhat tricky start and run out. Not recommended for new trad leaders.
The beginning slab is the crux and has very poor protection opportunities. Thin feet at the start require a bit of a side-to-side balancing move to reach a very shallow crack (more of a seam). The crack provides crimpy holds, but is flary and flaky, making it extremely hard to protect, if at all. Any protection you manage to place has a high chance of pulling out while climbing or breaking through the flaky edges if you fall. The first spot for placing a solid piece is near the ride side of the start of the roof traverse.
The traverse under the roof is comparatively mild with sufficient protection opportunities. While footholds aren't generous, small crystals provide good purchase. The rest of the route is relaxed.
Location
Slab leading up to a roof crack just to the left of Parlor Trick
Protection
Single rack up to 2". Doubles of 1" and 2" if setting up a TR anchor or belaying a follower from above. There are no bolts. Walk off.
Routes in East Face
- 2Orange Aid5.6Trad