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Peak Mountain 3

Mornin'

FA Stuart Schneider and Mark Magunson, 8/27/1983 (submitted as Richard DuMais and Steve Komito, 1987)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the obvious crack in the middle of the East Meadows gully that leads up to the saddle of the Notch. Many parties [apparently] mistake it for the finish of the Spiral Route, which is a good mistake to make as the climbing is excellent, well protected, and superior to the grassy ledges of that last 5.4. The initial crack is quite long and continuous. Secondary cracks and features are just left of the main crack, which affords you a variety of gear opportunities. The first 40ft is sustained, but it relaxes after that with large foot ledges.

After the initial crack, a ledge with a small gully leading right appears. I went up the gully and found another crack system and a tiny roof. This had more moss and lichen, but was good in any case. Turn the roof and go way right or head straight up. If you go far right to the next crack, rope drag will be an issue. Backclean if you do this. The line ends on a large ledge just 50ft to the right of the Notch saddle. It's probably possible to link both pitches with a 60m rope.

Protection

Standard alpine rack.