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Peak Mountain 3

White Room

FA Roger Briggs and Larry Hamilton, June 1974
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

White Room wanders up the broad wall to the right of Optimismus, finishing up a prominent corner. The climbing is excellent but serious. The first ascent party, who climbed this route hammerless and without camming gear, wrote afterwards that they were "impressed by the steep, usually difficult, inobvious and solid nature of the rock, and also by the occasional poorness of protection and belay anchors." Fortunately, no falls were taken. They rated the route IV 5.10.

The poorly-protected 5.11 section at mid-height on the current line was originally bypassed via devious and poorly-protected 5.8. Escape is possible at several points above, but the final two pitches are the climb's best.

The route name refers to the climactic inside corner, with overtones of madness and electric guitar.

Protection

Modern rack, mostly thin with some wider pieces up to 3.5 or 4".