- Edit (TBD)
Description
Awesome gorge climbing, a typical "innie" between Dark Star and Morning Star. Begin with funky stem/smear moves and a high hand-foot match protected by small gear to a good stance on a rail. Clip the first pin, breath, and fight crimps, locks, and smears to a slopy block at the bolt. Finesse and power your way through a deadpoint crux and play find the kneebar. Clip three more pins as you fight through technical smears and awkward bulging slots. Try to catch your breath at the last pin before a flared handjam and sidepull sequence gives way to easier climbing.
Location
Count two corners right of Morning Star, or two corners left of Cry of the Gerbil. Start on a block that rises to chest height.
Protection
All the old fixed pins have been replaced, making the pro much more inspiring than before. 00 thru 2 metolius and a half dozen quickdraws should do it.
Routes in (4) Star Wall
- 7Neutron Star5.12-Trad