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Peak Mountain 3

Morning Star

FA Paul Landrum & Ken Currens 3/75
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Finding this classic route is trivial: hike the trail till you see the 2-foot etching of a climber in the rock. Route starts on left side of the etching. Route offers perfect pro all the way. Stem and jam a 1-inch crack (10-). Crux hits about 30-40 feet up as the stems run out and the finger jams become very shallow. Going eases somewhat just above as some wide stemming again becomes possible. Note the cool hand holds just below double bolt anchors.

Protection

Conservative rack includes many cams in the red Alien and/or #0.5 Camalot size. Double green and yellow Aliens. Triple #0.75 Camalots. Double #1 Camalots. A handful of small to mid-sized nuts. No larger cams needed. This is a conservative rack - i.e. hard route for me.