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Peak Mountain 3

Honey Pot

FA Abbie Morrissey and Della Woods, July 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Honey Pot is closed until 2 weeks after young peregrine have fledged.

Honey Pot is a great route for those climbers looking for an adventure. You'll find three pitches with fun movement, exposure, and comfortable belay ledges. This route starts out with a crux pitch of approximately 5.10c followed by 5.8 and 5.9 climbing. The first pitch of Taste of Honey can be linked into Honey Pot for a three pitches of climbing 5.9 and under. Climbers will find bolts protecting more difficult movement thought. This route was established by Willie Long and Abbie Morrissey in July of 2018. It gives beautiful views to the South Comb, and also to the Umpqua Watershed below.

Pitch 1- 85' 5.10c 10 bolts: The crux of this route is the beginning of the first pitch. The route starts off with easy face climbing left of Taste of Honey. The face immediately transitions into a small roof for the crux. After pulling the roof move up and left along bulges and aretes to the first anchor. At the last arete move out and left to find a hidden hold. (The first anchor is approximately 6 feet left of Taste of Honey.  From here you can link into Taste of Honey.)

Pitch 2- 65' 5.8 Climb up and left moving over bulges and through easier terrain to find the belay ledge below a short orange ramp . Pitch 3- 65' 5.9 Move up the ramp to the overhung corner system above.  You'll find plenty of large jugs for making clips.  move through the corner system to the final anchor at the summit left of the large summit block. Once you have completed the climb scramble around the back of the summit cluck to find the register (green ammo can).  You'll find a bolt that you can use to protect the scramble in desired.

Descent: Rappel down the middle of the main face. Chains are located at the top of Taste of Honey. See rappel topo in the photos below for further clarification. You'll find a rappel station in the  middle of the face about 75' below the summit. Don't miss it and tie knots in the end of your rope.

Also, there is poison oak growing from behind a boulder at the base of the route, which for now can be avoided by stepping on the boulder. 

Location

The climb begins at the lowest point of the Forbidden Comb just to the left of Taste of Honey. To access the Forbidden comb, walk down the gravel road to the second large logging platform. From this point, go down the hill keeping the North Comb on your right.

Protection

This rout is bolted and can be climbed with a standard rack of draws