- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is known to have falcons raising young at the top from February-July so please inform yourself about the situation on a yearly basis and do not climb if the falcons are present during this time.Taste of Honey is a sport route that has bolts protecting the more difficult moves, and slight runouts when the climbing is easy. This route gives beautiful views to the South Comb, and also to the Umpqua Watershed below.Pitch 1- 90' 5.9 The most difficult climbing of the route is the beginning of the first pitch. The route starts off stiff, and eases up towards the top of the first pitch. Ends at a bolted belay station.Pitch 2- 30' 5.6 Easy climbing up, and later traversing right along a ledge. The pitch ends at a belay station above an overhang.Alternate- 5.10b A bolt line to the right follows steeper terrain climbs the overhangPitch 3- 100' 5.6 Follow the arete with easy climbing to top where you'll find a register and rap chains. Note: about 30 ft from top you'll pass a separate set of anchors slightly off-route to your right.Descent: IMPORTANT - With 60m rope use short first rappel. There is a separate rap station that is off to the left (facing rock), between pitch-2 and pitch-3 belay stations. You can rap from this middle station (with chains) to the top of pitch-1. You should NOT rap over the roof at belay from bottom of pitch-3. See rappel topo in the photos section for further clarification.
Location
The climb begins at the lowest point of the Forbidden Comb. To access the Forbidden comb, walk down the gravel road to the second large logging platform. From this point, go down the hill keeping the North Comb on your right.
Protection
Bolted. You may want to bring slings to extend your draws
Routes in Forbidden Comb
- 2Taste of Honey5.9Sport