- Edit (TBD)
Description
A very unusual route for the creek, but one that caught my eye for long enough that I was willing to give it the effort. A beautiful splitter into a varnished knife edge arete. I spent the better part of a day blowing brass stoppers out of the seam to the left to get the bolts in.
The route begins with a nice section of ringlocks that quickly drops to fingers and then tips. Place a high cam or two and then step right on crimps to the knife edge arete. 3 bolts of incredibly desperate, insecure arete slapping, heel hooking and laybacking will bring you to a final stance, where if you get your body properly balanced, you can clip the chains. This route demands precise footwork, balance and belief.
This route is like non-other I have climbed, so grading it is difficult. I took me many days over the course of 5 creek seasons to finally do it.
Location
Just left of the MC Hammer Zone.
Protection
single rack red metolius to 0.3, 2 black totem size for switch to arete. 3 bolts. I found that extending the 3rd bolt with an alpine made it easier to clip.
Routes in Cliffs of Insanity
- 19The Wind Rider5.13Trad