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Peak Mountain 3

The Original Prepare to Die

FA Devin Fin and Brian VanSickle
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Nice looking big hands crack in a left facing corner. Low angle through the #4 part keeps it moderate.

The anchors are far back on a spacious ledge, I can only assume because someone was envisioning a 2nd pitch (maybe it's been done - see below). Because of this, you'll probably want to rap, and it's not a great one for TR laps.

(Editor's note on second pitch below)

The second pitch is a short wide-fist crack to a stance somewhat in a bombay chimney. 40 ft.  5.10a/b. ** (2 stars using MP’s 4 star system)

The rap from the P2 anchor to the ground is 120 to 125 ft, so it’s not practical using a 70 m rope without some down climbing.

Protection: (1) #3, (several) #4’s with a mix of new and old sizes, (1 or more) #5 Camalots.

FA: Kent Pease and Dominique, March 2015.

Location

Immediately right of the Mini-Cave/Inigo Montoya.

Protection

2-3 #2, 3-4 #3, 1-2#4, all in C4 Camalot sizes.


Routes in Cliffs of Insanity


  1. 39
    The Original Prepare to Die
    5.10+
    Trad