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Peak Mountain 3

Portal to a Thimbleberry Buddha

FA Nate Goodman, Matt Primomo, Colby Stetson, August 25, 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

We found this to be a very fun climb on and inside good rock, and fairly unique for the grade. Seemed worth sharing. Climb up and into the deep chimney at the top of the triangle, sling chockstones, climb a nice crack inside the chimney and pop out onto a potential mid-way belay ledge. Then jump back into the chimney, traverse out near the edge for some great holds on chockstones in a cool position. Stem on the outside for a while, then tunnel through some chockstones to the top. Wild!

We left a rap anchor off a tree to climbers L (to the southwest). Rap was a straight shot back to thimbleberry-land, and the length was somewhere around 50m if I recall correctly.

Location

Walk up the Death Canyon Trail, and cross the creek onto the SW side of the drainage at around 7460ft. Spot the climb across the creek from the trail as you get closer. Look for some flat glacier polished slabs to walk on, then cross a boulderfield and find the nice thimbleberry filled depression beneath a large triangular feature. Maybe 8 minutes from the trail.

Protection

Standard rack with some long slings


Routes in South side of Death Canyon