Technicolor Odyssey

This is an excellent rock climb on good stone. The movement is fun and the position above Death Canyon is spectacular. From what I can tell this is a new route. I pulled off quite a few obvious hand/foot holds and did a fair bit of brushing. These are the Tetons and if you did this bad larry back in the 70's (probably in way better style) let me know!

P1-P2: Climb the first two pitches of The Bees Knees (Little, Diamond 2020). Belay on the right side of the large tree ledge.

P3: 5.10 From the tree ledge move right on the ramp under a bulge for about 20 feet until it is possible to step back left above the bulge (5.8). There's not much in the way of protection for the step back, so make sure to place some gear before doing so. Move up and left on fun edges and flakes to the crux. Fire some strenuous and reachy moves with poor feet to the obvious undercling (5.10). Crank past the undercling, traverse right for a few feet, and then up to another obvious undercling/ flake. Again, move directly right (don't go too high) to gain the base of the beautiful orange dihedral. Climb the dihedral (5.9) and exit left at the top on nice holds. Belay at a good stance below the steep headwall and roof. 35 m. A quality pitch.

For the most part this pitch protects well (especially the crux), however, there are some stretches where the pro is sparse the placements are thoughtful/ not obvious.

P4: 5.10+/11-? This pitch is stellar. From the belay move up and right to the base of the headwall. Power up the steeeep face passing a fixed nut on jugs, slopers and crimps (5.10+). Excellent climbing. Continue up to the roof and pull it with some burly and wild moves (5.10+). Climb steep fingers (5.9), then perfect hands (5.8), and exit left onto the huge right leaning ramp. Belay here, or continue up the ramp to a tree and make a belay. 30-35 m.

P5. 5.8 From the tree follow cracks up and left. Traverse left around a black block and pull up to the summit on jugs. This pitch is short and a bit dirty, but the climbing is still fun and the moves to the summit are memorable.

Descent: From the top of pitch 5 scramble left (east) over some boulders and a Juniper bush. Spot the slung block and rap back down the steep face to the huge ramp. From here, scramble down the ramp (4th class) to the first rap of The Bees Knees and rap the route.

First major formation on the south side of Death Canyon (see The Bees Knees). The roof crack is obvious from the base of the buttress.

Lots of small/ tiny stuff. Offsets are useful. Doubles .3-1. Single 2-3. Many runners. 70m rope. Maybe a wire brush if you feel like doing some community service.