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Peak Mountain 3

Margaritaville

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Description

This route climbs crack systems to the right of Black Velvet.

P1: Start up a thin left facing corner. The crux is about 15' up where the crack thins out and you're forced onto the face to the left. Above another tricky section takes you to easier ground and a bolted belay. 90', 5.8+

P2: Climb the crack past a fixed pin to a ledge. The R&I topo showed a variation to the left at 5.8+ but we took the right hand crack, past another fixed pin, to a ramp at the right side of the Black Velvet roof. Follow this easily right to a rap anchor.

Location

Start about 25' right of Black Velvet

We had a single 60m rope and rapped diagonally right over to a tree with a nest of old slings and then again to the ground. With two ropes you wouldn't need to stop at the tree.

Protection

Standard rack, maybe a few extra small cams.