Best Bitters

The Rock and Ice topo shows this route done in 4 pitches. However, with smart rope management it can be done in two quite comfortably.

P1 5.7: Start up face holds to gain a ledge. Traverse right (5.7) over a slab to reach the ;left side of a pillar. Jam/layback this to its top, then continue up easy face climbing to a good belay stance near some bushes adorned with poot slings.

P2 5.9+: This pitch zig-zags a lot and gets progressively harder. Unless you are comfortable running out sections of 5.7 climbing, it may be best to break this into two pitches. From the belay, follow a ramp up to the right using the hand/fist crack. Near the end of the ramp, gain a steeper ramp which goes to the left. This ramp uses good face holds and thin finger cracks. Near the top of this ramp is a spot to belay off to the left. The final section of the climb traverses back to the right following a finger crack and small crimpers(5.9+). There are a few cracks to choose from while traversing right, the trick is to aim for the blocky boulder summit of this headwall.

Beware some loose rock, although for the most part this climb is solid. The final sequence can feel much more difficult if approached the wrong way.

Shares a start with Zombie on some easy face climbing directly beneath the rappel anchors. Descend by scrambling down over west to rappel chains. A single two-rope rappel, or rap to the left to reach the belay ledge at the top of Zombie.

Standard rack with emphasis on finger-sized cams for the last pitch (wires will work too, but cams make it a bit easier). An old 1/4" bolt protects the first slab traverse, and another old 1/4" bolt is found at the top of the column.

The poot slings should be avoided as I do not think that shrub could withstand much force. No anchors at top.