- Edit (TBD)
Description
Approach:
Take care if opting for the direct approach from the saddle of Toole Tower, loose and exposed 5th class. Gear can be found for belay.
P1
. Start in the obvious, large, right facing corner, continue up and exit the corner to a stance above and right. 80ft 5.10+. Move belay up to the corner below a hand crack. 50ft 4th class
, loose.
P2
Climb the clean corner, past a large loose block, ending at the base of a low angle hand crack 90ft. 5.10a.
P3
Climb the lower angle hand crack and through a short chimney ("the pantry") to the summit of the tower with a bolted anchor/rappel on the west side of the formation. 5.7 90ft. One 80 ft rappel takes you to the ground on the west side of the tower. Descend sand and loose rock North, and eventually East, back to the base of Mrs. Buttersworth. Eat your flapjacks. Feed your soul.
Location
Directly across from Mrs buttersworth/toole tower route. Located in the right facing fist/offwidth corner.
Protection
All natural belays. Doubles to #4 Camelot, nice to have x 1, 4.5-6" piece . 1 60m rope.
Routes in Eagle Crag
- 4Flapjack Crack AKA "Soul Food"5.10+Trad