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Peak Mountain 3

Early Bird Special

FA Steffan Gregory, Derrick Fassbender FFA Steffan Gregory
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is on the same formation as Flapjack Crack (5.10+). It climbs the side facing Springdale (North Face). Pitch 1 / 5.12- Face climb past two bolts to the splitter. Climb fingers,to a long stretch of tight hands that takes you to the top of P1 Anchor. 35m. Rock quality is largely good, though it deteriorates toward the end of the pitch. P2 /5.8 standard Desert tower choss, climb right a few feet and then up around the summit block to the anchor. It's very loose and the protection isn't stellar. This gains the summit anchor and the same 80 foot descent as Flapjack Crack. Pitch 1 can be top roped with a 70m rope. The rock is soft out at the eagle crags, avoid climbing the route if the rock is wet.

Location

Eagle Crags. Standard approach to Tooele Tower.

Protection

(1 of each) / blue metolius or similar/ #2 BD/ #3 BD/ (3 of each) / .3 BD - .5 BD/ (4-6 of each) .75 BD - #1 BD