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Peak Mountain 3

Crack in the Cosmic Egg

FA Brian Smoot, Les Ellison (4/84)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1

(C2+ or 5.11 R) Climb right-facing corner to a ledge with bolted anchor.

P2

(C2) Follow the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to a bolted belay anchor.

P3

(C2) Continue up the 1/4 to 1/2 inch crack to belay ledge and bolted anchor.

P4

(C1) Move back into the crack, which is now 1/2 - 3/4 inch, and climb to bolted anchor.

P5

(C2+) Move up from the anchor, then do a short pendulum to the right to gain a right-facing corner. Climb this to a sloping belay/bivy ledge.

P6

(C1 or 5.11a) Climb the 1.5 to 2 inch crack that ends with a section of offwidth/chimney.

P7

(5.9) Handcrack to chimney.

P8

(C1) "The Wormhole". Climb through the side slot passing apast a block on the left the wide chimney. #2 Camalot for belay.

P9

(5.9) Climb the handcrack in left-facing corner.

P10

(5.8, C2) Continue up crack (5.8) then right (C2) to top anchor.

TOPO 1

TOPO 2

Location

Located on the East face of Mt. Moroni in the center of the tallest, most prominent buttress. Approach starts at the Zion Lodge. Cross the river on the Emerald Pools Trail then turn left and follow the sandy horse trail. After about 10-15 minutes, start looking for a faint path to the right. This will go through a break in the cliff band and to the base of the wall.

Protection

(2) sets small offsets nuts, (1) set nuts, (3) Black Alien - #3 Camalot, (1) #4 & #5(new) Camalot, hooks


Routes in Mt. Moroni