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Peak Mountain 3

Plan B

FA - Joe French, Eric Draper, Bryan Bird (11/98), FFA - Jeff Hollenbaugh, Cameron Tague
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Plan B

ascends a right-facing corner system through three distinct roofs. The rock is generally good quality and the climbing is quite enjoyable. A challenging route with some incredible positions. The route now goes free, but was originally done at 5.11 C2.

P1

(5.6) Climb the detached pillar/flake via squeeze chimney. Belay off gear.

P2

(5.11a) Climb the splitter finger and tight-hand crack in the face right of the corner to a tree.

P3

(5.11) Continue up the crack through a wide slot to a small stance. Belay off gear.

P4

(5.9-5.10) Make a crack switch and continue up past a pillar via double cracks to bolted belay.

P5

(5.12b) Follow low-angle corner up to below the first large horizontal roof. Climb the tight-hand crack through the roof to a bolted belay above.

P6

(5.12a) Continue up the corner to below a second smaller roof. Climb out this roof to a bolted belay above.

P7

(5.10) Climb the crack in the corner to a third small roof. Move right under the roof and follow the wild hand crack to belay.

P8

(5.9) Continue up the hand crack to the top and belay off 3-3.5" gear.

Location

Located on the East face of

Mt. Moroni

. Approach starts at the Zion Lodge. Cross the river on the Emerald Pools Trail then turn left and follow the sandy horse trail. After about 10 minutes, start looking for a faint climber's path to the right. This will go through a break in the cliff band and to the base of the wall.

Plan B

will be to the left once the wall is reached.

Protection

(1) set of stoppers

(1) set of TCUs

(2) sets of Camalots #.5 - #4

Extra #1's

(1) #5 Camalot