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Peak Mountain 3

Zircon Encrusted Geezers

FA Ed DeLong et al, 2007
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first pitch of this route is the stuff...a great pure friction smearing workout. Ed calls this "5.7 or so" but I'm inclined to say it is 5.8 or 5.9-. SAAAAANDBAGGGGGG. This ends on a great ledge. The second pitch starts up the 5.4 crack system, then steps out left onto the water streak. The bolt is weirdly placed here, we intend to fix this problem this year. Nonetheless, the rest of the climb goes up the water streak above, progressively easier as you ascend. There is a steep step near the top that is interesting.

Location

Drive into Moonstone to the end of the road and park by the cabin. Above the cabin is a slightly right trending crack system (5.4). The route starts on the beautiful slab right of the base of this crack, look for the bolts. Rappell to descend.

Protection

Bolts, 3/8" Fixx. Fixx ring rappel anchors at all belays. May want a medium cam or sling to protect the step out onto the slab on the second pitch. 60m rope is required for the upper pitches. Two 60m ropes required to rappel the route, if go above the first pitch.