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Peak Mountain 3

Moonstone Crack Project

FA No free ascent, yet
CREATED 
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Description

The Moonstone crack project.

Severely overhanging hand, finger crack with high V.

Savage undercling, V6, to flaring hand jam, to secure fist jam, leads into a 5.12+ flaring hand shuffle, with right side scum, a couple of 5.13 finger locks, then an unsent, high V, tips scum boulder, to tips, to secure flared hand finish. Overhanging 25 degrees. Bolt anchor.

Brutal!

Our posse votes for a 9 or 10 bolt route with fixed draws to get it done. Bolts should placed on the left of fissure.

We might have to wait for the next generation climber with next generation crack skills and equipment. (Single application stick on hand jammies/ rubber hip patches et al, etc.)

Location

Just right of Moonscape. See photo. Approach on left side of slab routes, north of difficult gulley on low angle black slab. 20 minutes.

Protection

Top rope off 2 bolts from 1995. 5 piece rawl,  3/8" x  3 1/2'' galvanized steel in good, dry, granite.