- Edit (TBD)
Description
For the most part, the climbing leaves something to be desired, but the setting is beautiful, and you won't be fighting anyone to get in line on this one! Rock quality is poor in a lot of areas, be ready for run out ridge climbing. My lengths are rough estimates. We climbed with a 70m rope.
P1: Start up the gully to the left of the saddle with trees. I made it to the ridge and went over it to belay off trees on the south side of the ridge. (200ft)
P2: From the trees scramble down and skiers left until below a chimney-ish feature with a chockstone at its top. You won't see the chockstone from the trees, but it will be very obvious to spot from below once you scramble over. Climb up to below the chockstone. Supposedly there is another variation that acends the ridge itself here and ends above the chockstone. (90ft)
P3: Go around and then over the chockstone to start climbing the ridge itself. There is a hard to protect move along the way up a small vertical face, with poor quality rock. Keep going until you reach a flat spot with trees on the right. I went left here to belay and be ready for the next pitch (200ft)
P4 Continue left and regain the ridge. We started simuling here. I crossed back over the ridge to the south side and spotted what looked like a nice steep section of better quality rock so I went for it, but it turned out to just be steep with poor quality rock. If this part got cleaned up it would be fun. Until then, I don't recommend it. It prob went at 5.9-ish. I think you are supposed to stay on the ridge instead of what I did. (150ft)
P5-6 Continue from the false summit to the real one (300ft)
Descend by heading south for a short distance down to the little trails looking things, then head east to another '"false summit". On the far side of that false summit you see a tree with rap tat on it. This will be the second gully you come across on the descent (you will pass another gully as you are heading east toward the false summit). Rap or downclimb this gully until you see an obvious saddle going back toward the east. We saw rap rings high on the wall here, but everything was set for snow conditions, so we had to head down this gully a bit to get to some rap tat. Do a couple raps (depending on how much you want to downclimb), and end up on the skiers right of the east face. Go down the scree back to thumbtack rock.
Location
Approach as for East face, but when you get to thumbtack rock (10T 0616013E 5257415N), head right up a grassy gully to go over the ridge. Head toward the NW ridge from here.
Protection
Single Alpine Rack. I seemed to use my 0.4 a bunch, so maybe 2 of those.
Routes in Summer-Fall (rock)
- 2Northwest Ridge5.7Trad