Chair-Bryant Traverse

Long alpine ridge traverse from Chair Peak to Bryant Peak. Summit to summit is 0.65 miles as the crow flies, but the actual climbing is obviously much longer. There are numerous sub-peaks along the way. Most of the climbing is easy 5th with some crux moves up to 5.7. There is a lot of rappelling required, thus the A0 rating.

We started up the Northeast Ridge of Chair (a popular ice route in winter). We free-soloed about 3/4 of the ridge (easy 5th), then roped up for a crux 5.6 move about 3/4 of the way up.

We then rappelled down a gully on the Southwest side of Chair, then continued free soloing up chossy rock up to the ridge proper. The ridge is then followed for about 0.35 miles (as the crow flies) over loose terrain with a number of mandatory rappels, some easy down climbing and blocky scrambling. We encountered a short slabby crux with a 5.7 finger crack that we protected with micro nuts.

When we ran out of exposed ridgeline we rappelled down to the Bryant Peak col above Melakwa Lake. A short hike and some snow scrambing (ice axe appreciated) led us to some easy 5th class simul-climbing up the Northwest face of Bryant Peak. A few rappels off trees on the Northeast side of Bryant Peak brought us down to the snowfields above Source Lake.

Hiking out can be a slog. The goal is to intersect with the approach route for the Tooth.

Start at the Northeast Ridge of Chair Peak. Park at the Alpental Ski Area. Approach as for the Tooth. At Source Lake climb up a gully toward the Northwest, orienting to the Northeast Ridge of Chair Peak. I remember doing a short 4th class scramble to surmount a cliffband about halfway between Source and Chair. An ice axe was very useful in June for steep snow on the approach.

Single rack of trad gear. Bring lots of extra webbing to assist with rappels. Pick a webbing color that will blend in with the rock. There are generally lots of big rocks and trees to rappel from, but we did need to pound two knifeblade pitons at one point to build a rappel anchor. 60m half ropes were very helpful for all the rappels. I personally would not try this with a single rope.