The Grand Course

First, let me state that I am amazed how many routes in the Eldo data base have 3 stars. Don't let this 2 star rating dissuade you - I'm keeping things in perspective. This route is as good as most of the "3 star" routes in the vicinity.

P1. For the first pitch (10-), you need to be adept at crack climbing. It has a section of wide hands and fists. Also, this short pitch is rather polished, so watch your foot placements carefully. There are a couple of choices for establishing a belay at the end of the first pitch. Take the one that suits you best. We opted to stay low at the first large ledge to avoid the fumes of bird excrement.

P2. Move up into what can best be described as a twin crack system. Take this upward and move right into a right-facing dihedral. This dihedral is mostly thin, but as I mentioned earlier, a #3.5 Friend (or 2) may have worked. I also managed a #1 Camalot, but a #2.5 Friend may have worked a little better. I got a wobbly, but decent nut at a weird block in the crack near the crux. Anyway, you will know when you get to the business. It looked like persons taller than myself may have moved slightly right at the crux. I pretty much had to go straight-up.

My best advice for someone considering this climb is to 1) be able to crack climb; 2) have good footwork, including stemming; and 3) be comfortable doing cruxes a little above your gear.

There is a 5.9 variation, where you stay left/straight above the first pitch. I only glanced at it and it looked good and may protect better than the 11- pitch. A couple parties that did it earlier and did the climb in one pitch.

Erickson's book rated P1 5.9 and P2 10-!

Bring a standard rack at least up to a #4 Friend. A #4 Camalot was placed on the first pitch by my partner. I possibly could have used a #3.5 Friend on the mid/upper part of the 2nd pitch. At the top of the crux pitch, work up and left to a belay tree from which you will need 2 ropes to rappel to the ground. Also, save a 0 TCU/blue Alien for the crux pitch.