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Peak Mountain 3

Lost in Space

FA Jim and Dave Erickson, 1972
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Don't do this route.

As a moderate lead, it fails on two distinct counts. 1) Loose Rock, dangerous to both climber and belayer. 2) A runout third pitch, the last pitch up the "huge dihedral." I felt a 40+ foot fall was definitely possible.

The first pitch, as Rossiter says, ascends "indistinct terrain" and is characterized by loose rock. We were hoping for 3 solid pitches in the 5.7 dihedral. Yes, there were some good moves, especially on the bulges in the 2nd pitch, but the runout 3rd and the additional loose rock in the 4th pitch made this an unappealing climb.

Note that trees are everywhere, and you could wrap off this at any point with a single rope.

Protection

Up to a #4.5 Camalot. A couple of double length slings are helpful on the first, wandering pitch.