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Peak Mountain 3

Gropius

FA George Squibb
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route was originally equipped by Pete Zoller and Mike Pont, who abandoned the route after determining that it was "too long." It sat idle for a few years until George Squibb swooped in and freed the thing.

This is two routes left of

Der Stihl

and is basically the first route on the right when the approach trail drops you off at the base of the Bauhaus Wall. It climbs out the left side of the cave/wave onto a vertical face, which is followed by another bulge and a long, slightly overhanging headwall. It shares the first two bolts with Bauhaus Proclamation before moving left into a large pod/hole.

Sustained climbing on good but distant holds out the cave leads to a difficult lip move which sets you up on the vertical plaque. Shake out for the crux -- thin crimping through the bulge with plenty of hard, pumpy moves to blow it on through the middle of the headwall. The headwall eventually eases up, becoming somewhat chossy yet still gratifying.

This route is held together with a fair bit of glue but doesn't have any chipped holds . . . praise the lord!

Gropius was originally named "The Airtight Blonde."

Protection

16 draws (some long ones) and a 60 meter rope.