Mama Tried

P1. Climb a pitch to the base of the huge dihedral/corner/chimney - there are plenty of options. We belayed off the obvious tree, but the belayer got shelled some (M3-5, 20-30m).

P2. The dihedral/chimney is the money pitch. Climb sustained M4 with M5 bulges and a well-protected M6 roof/overlap pull to finish it out onto a nice ledge system. Belay on trees to the left. We simuled some (60+m, M6).

P3. Go around the corner, and start up a crack system on the face of the buttress (tree 40ish feet up for marker). Follow this system past trees, through an offwidth (maybe a #5, we didn’t have one) and trend left on a ledge when you reach it (optional belay before you trend left). Belay off a 1-inch tree and 2-fixed nut anchor. Up until here, the route was adequately protected by Darkside standards (R but all there) (M4/5, 40m).

P4. We shoulda listened to Mama! Climb left off the belay, get a stance, and bust back right over the short headwall and onto the slab. Quest up the slab/face, trending left towards the edge of the buttress. You’re aiming for the corner left of the steep headwall for the last 15ish meters to the top. I don’t think this pitch is quite X-rated, but it’s out there (M4/5 5.9 R+ 50m).

Descent: rap the route, all the anchors are fixed. Feel free to add a bolt or two to the fixed nut/tiny tree anchor. Ya never know with freeze/thaw.

Rack: nuts, pins, a single set finger cams, single set 0.5-4, extra 0.75 and 1, and two 60m ropes.

Start the descent just past the Poser's lounge and pullout. Cross the river, and start angling up and left to the buttress. The route starts right of

Palm and Pray

. The approach time is 30 minutes -1 hour depending on snow conditions.

Rack: nuts, pins, a single set finger cams, a single set 0.5-4, extra 0.75s and 1s. Bring two 60m ropes.