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Peak Mountain 3

Dirty Minds

FA Bryan Gilmore and Jim Turner
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a great adventure route up a major corner system that eventually climbs an amazing chimney behind the obvious, large pillar in the middle of the wall. There is cruxy climbing on each of the 4 pitches, all with just enough pro to make it reasonable. But, a fall anywhere would be less than ideal! This route, like the other new routes on this wall put up over the last few seasons, serves up a healthy portion of CHOSS. But, if you're a seasoned San Juan adventurer, you should find enjoyment throughout. :O

Location

It is about halfway between

Bird Brain Boulevard

and the

Racing Stripes

. This ascends very obvious corners leading to giant pillar on wall. See the pic.

Protection

We brought a double set of cams to a #3 Camalot, one #4, and a set of stoppers. Pins could be useful. Bring a 70m rope. Four raps gets you down with a bit of easy scrambling to reach the last rap anchor - all from stout trees. The second rap can be done with one rope, the others are all rope stretchers.