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Peak Mountain 3

Roll Them Bones

FA Brandon Gottung, Ian Harris, Drew Chojnowski, Forrest Wilcox (2018-01-13)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

To get to the base of the route, scramble to the left side of the rock pile formation in front of the headwall. Climb a short 3rd/4th class pitch to get on to the ledge/rock pile.

P1 120 ft. 5.9: Step from the large ledge directly into a vertical hand sized crack, which shortly changes to two parallel vertical cracks. Follow the crack system until reaching a right leaning roof with green lichen. Follow the roof using fist jams and poor feet (#4 and #5 Camelots useful here). Upon exiting the roof, climb directly upwards on lower quality rock to a small, sloping ledge.

P2 100 ft. 5.9: from the belay, grab the large flake to the left and stand into the start of a corner. Climb 20ft to reach a small bulge with a yucca growing out of the top. Mantle the bulge to reach the bottom of a left leaning chimney. Upon exiting the chimney, continue following the weakness up. Large, broken flakes remain inside the crack providing some instances of protection. Finish on a decent ledge directly on the ridge of the Rib.

P3 70 ft. 4th/low-5: Follow the ridge up from the belay ledge to the "summit" (one of several such "summits" along Long Rib).

Descent: Follow the ridge East until it is possible to scramble down into the gully along a grassy horizontal ledge on the left. At the top of the gully is a large dead Juniper tree with webbing and a quicklink. Double rope rappel with 60m ropes will reach the ground South of the Rib.

Location

From Topp Hut Road, follow the Long Rib trail. You should end up in a steep wooded gully which leads you to the base of the rock pile formation mentioned above.

Protection

Doubles in Camalot .2-#3. #4 and #5 for the traverse. Set of nuts.