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Peak Mountain 3

Early Start

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Description

The route does not look appealing at first, as it follows an obvious slanting ramp with some trees on it, but it is a lot cleaner and more solid than it looks. It also provides a good way to access the start of Xiphoid Process, with not much walking between the two.

Description: go up the slab to the ramp. This can be done on the right, but with little in a way of protection, or left of the cactus with more pro and some moves on steeper and less secure ground. Go along the ramp past two trees and climb up a step to easier ground. The route steepens again at a chock stone. It's possible to climb this on the right or left of the stone, and the chock itself has been successfully tested as well. Above the stone, there is a nice belay tree in a bit of jungle.

Location

Going up the gully north of Long Rib, a huge chock stone is clearly visible. To the right and only short distance below it, a narrow slot of a side gully peels off to the right. A short distance from the start, a chock stone blocks it about head high. Scramble over that and step to the right onto a slab. Continue scrambling to the right a short distance to a grassy hole in the ridge the slab leads to. This is the start of the route.

To get down, you can walk down to the gully north of Long Rib, or you can walk along the crest of the rib some and continue to Xiphoid Process.

Protection

There is no fixed pro, unless you count the trees. Standard rack with doubles in mid sizes is sufficient.