Another Mindless Crack

Start in an inset formed by a large, right-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral (5.7) to another inset and to an optional belay at the base of the overhanging crack. Jam the four-inch crack (10c), climb over a large wedged block, and reach the top.

I led Anne Leibold up this on 10/15/83. The route was then undocumented, and we didn’t know what to expect. (It’s in recent guidebooks under this name; we didn’t name it.)  We rappelled from slings that we found on top, although those might have been placed for descent after climbing up nearby routes.

Back in the day, before bolted anchors were placed atop most routes, getting down wasn’t convenient, and you had to scramble off or search nearby for something to hold a sling (rather than leave relatively expensive wedges or hexes). According to Rossiter’s 1999 guidebook, there’s now a two-bolt anchor.

A standard rack through 4 inches, maybe bigger.