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Peak Mountain 3

Thin Crack

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Description

Climb the less-than-vertical thin crack up towards two bolts and on toward a two bolt anchor below the steep red band.

Start slightly left of the crack, and traverse up and right on small but good holds. Place good small pro (offset cams/small Totems helpful), then continue up the crack to an inward flaring pod (tricky gear). A couple more slabby moves bring you to the first of two oldish (but closely spaced) bolts. After clipping highest bolt, slide left toward creaky undercling, maybe the crux, and then complete a cool barn-doory sequence up the final stretch. Place a good yellow Alien to finish things off.

The climbing on this thing is quite fun. The gear felt a bit heads up on the onsight. Plus: who knows how old the bolts are...?

Location

Located in a small v-shaped alcove 30ish feet right of the north edge of the Main Cliff. This is essentially the first line you get to with fixed gear (two bolts, two bolt anchor with slings) on the "lower tier" of the Main Cliff.

Protection

Thin pro, offsets are helpful, and two bolts.