- Edit (TBD)
Description
There is a line between
Guppy
and
Crackside Direct
that ascends a black intrusion band and is largely protectable with gear. It was climbed long ago with Ken's explorations back in the days when hexes ruled the Earth. At the time, he did it with his neighbor, they didn't think it was a first ascent and hence didn't name it (sounds familiar, yes, it occurred on
Crackside
, too).
You can start this line either from the
Guppy
pod angling up and right towards the black intrusion or from the 2 bolt anchor of
Crackside
and angling left. Perhaps 30 feet up you can choose left and the tiny, right-facing dihedral or up the blocky black rock. Continue upward protecting using discontinuous features until you get to the finger/thin crack mentioned in
Crackside Direct
. You can finish in this thin feature or move a couple feet right on bigger features to gain the leftward traverse past 2 bolts and the semi-hanging belay and anchor for
Guppy
.
Rappel 115'.
Location
This is between
Guppy
and
Crackside Direct
and follows a black intrusion band.
Protection
Wireds, cams to a #3 Camalot. ~15 slings/quickdraws.
Routes in Creek Side
- 12Clown Loach (temporary name)5.8Sport · Trad