Bro's Gold

Bro's Gold is highlighted by dynamic movement through huge roofs some 400 feet above the creek. Most of the rock is great, save for some near the start of pitch 1. If not for the easy climbing and multiple no hands rests that separate the fun cruxes, this could be a classic; however, if you love big moves and exposure but don't have a lot of stamina, you may love it.

Start by climbing the first two pitches of

Big Bro's Watching

or climb one of the easy slabs and traverse the fixed line left to the first two bolt anchor it's attached to (the fixed line is in okay shape as of 6.6.2021). The entire route stays dry during a rain save for the mantel under the final anchor.

P1:

5.11b, 115 feet, 11 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Climb up toward a left-scooping section of black rock and a high first bolt (consider extending it). A hand-size cam would protect the section before the first bolt, but it's only 5.5. From here, follow the bolts up and left to the first large roof (crux). Belay at the same pitch 3 stance belay as

Big Bro's Watching

(called the Kidney Killer, but it's not bad as far as exposed belays go).

P2:

5.11c, 70 feet, 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

From the belay, climb up to another roof, but escape right on very easy terrain. Set yourself up for the big dyno (crux) through a third roof, and pull over into the sit-down-and-have-a-picnic rest. Navigate the 4th and final roof with more big moves and a tricky mantel under the chains.

There could be another pitch that goes to the summit, but the rock is garbage and not worth anyone's time.

Start on the upper ledge high on Creek Side. It crosses paths with

Big Bro's Watching

.

10 quickdraws, 2 alpine draws, an optional hand-sized cam, and a 70m rope.