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Peak Mountain 3

Unnamed 11+ (right of Maceo)

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Description

This long route has three distinct cruxes with rests in between. Start by scrambling up some easy 5th class to the right. You can protect this section but it might add considerable rope drag so its probably best to hold off till your below the main corner. From a good ledge climb through a technical sequence utilizing face features. This might be considered a mental crux since the crack is small as is the gear. Next tackle a steep and sustained .75 crack that opens to fist/OW, second crux. Some easier thin hands leads to the final crux in a flaring corner with a finger size crack that gradually tapers down to .4's before reaching the anchor.

Location

Just right of Maceo.

Protection

The new Indian Creek Guides gear list is fairly accurate. I would bring one or two extra .5 and .4.


Routes in Cat Wall


  1. 10
    Unnamed 11+ (right of Maceo)
    5.11+
    Trad