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Description
This unusual Indian Creek finger crack actually has a crux that is more akin to face climbing. Be ready to pull it while protected by your smallest cams though. The route is way left of the Johnny Cat alcove, though not as far over as 9 Lives. There is a plaque at the base.
Climb the excellent finger crack at a sustained low-mid 5.11 level. A decent rest stance can be found just below the crux where the crack pinches to nothing. Fire in all the purple TCUs you brought and go for the crux. I have personally taken the short fall from the crux onto a purple TCU and it held. Even so, this is Wingate sandstone, not granite, so arrange your pro intelligently at the crux.
Protection
Lots of finger sized pieces... nothing bigger than a #.75 camalot. 2 or 3 Purple TCUs, or equivalent sized pieces, for the crux at the top are key.
Routes in Cat Wall
- 28Puma5.11+Trad