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Peak Mountain 3

Memorial Buttress

FA Dan Koch, Ben Townsend, summer 1982
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route climbs the semi-independent buttress left of the Armadillo (left of the ice climb The Primitives), joining the Armadillo very near the top. It's a bit scrappy but has one breathtaking pitch.

  1. Follow not-very-obvious cracks, mostly trending a bit right. (5.6)

  2. More indistinct cracks and grooves lead up to the base of a short, steep headwall. (5.5) It might be possible to combine the first two pitches. In 1982, old manila slings were found here.

  3. Instead of climbing the short headwall, crane your neck out right and find the horizontal hand crack traversing out over the void on perfect rock. Follow this crack until it ends and you can pull up into an offwidth-chimney; belay in a niche a short distance above. (5.7)

  4. The rest of the climb is mostly low fifth class up the ridge crest, but unlike most of the other ridge finishes in the South Basin, it has numerous short, exposed technical cruxes where a rope will be much appreciated. Unrope where this ridge meets the main Armadillo ridge.

Location

Approach as for the Armadillo, then traverse left on the vegetated ledge. Top out on the Knife Edge and hike down.

Protection

Standard rack, maybe a couple extra hand-size pieces. No fixed gear.